Old 09-20-20, 08:26 AM
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Adding some info here.

1) I have a KKRM with the heavy flywheel, with a "permanently attached" old alu Fuji Track frame on it, TT handlebar/setup, for standing starts only (sometimes I take the bike outside, it has brakes, safe for non-velodrome standing starts accelerations sessions on other kind of places).
Found that with 48/15 it simulates very well the power/cadence acceleration curve that I get with real race gear 51/14.
Had some slippage problems, solved with.... large tire on rear training wheel - with a 25mm "soft rubber" tire (Vittoria Rubino), the contact area gets larger and eliminated slippage (since I have only 1300w peaks usually). First I turn the bolt, then I pump to 120psi. It's working well and I'm just asking myself why I didn't think on a larger tire earlier...

2) Bought a Saris H3 and after a month of tests, I'm already selling it... it was intended to replace my Elite Drivo, for use on many different kind of training, like flying efforts high cadence, heavy gear low cadence, etc., with a geared road bike on it (geometry setup similar to the track bike).
Reasons to give up and get back to the Elite Drivo:
a) No Saris Campy compatible free-hub conversion available (still using 10sp, there's a difference between Campy and Shimano, shifting never gets ok);
b) No resistance curve if not controlled by apps like Zwift - taking time loading app just to make some "flat terrain" efforts - and sometime getting annoyed by the circuit profile variation inducing some resistance variation during a high cadence sprint.. (the Drivo offers very nice "real feel" resistance curve only if plugged on power, no app link required);
c) Power accuracy below pair, if compared with reliable Vector 3 on same bike. Drivo was always 1-3% below the pedals, very reasonable, but Saris H3 floated up to 5-10% deviation range, too high even considering the transmission power loss.
d) The "axle" contact pieces holding the frame on H3 aren't knurled as it's on the Drivo (on the left side) and in a real rear wheel axle. On the Saris H3, it's made of very well polished aluminum, allowing vertical frame slippage when sprinting. Even with a "carbon braking" tight rear skewer I had a bad event, almost braking a carbon frame during a seated, 100rpm 1000w sprint effort;
e) H3 is said to be one of the most "silent" trainers, much better than previous Cycleops Hammer H1 versions, etc... Ok, true. IF AND ONLY you do not stop pedaling.. never! If you stop, the cle cle cle cle loud sound will fill all the room space for long seconds (heavy flywheel) and even my wife came from the other end of the apartment to ask "what changed on your training device?".

Last edited by Clythio; 09-20-20 at 08:30 AM.
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