Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 14
From: San Francisco, California
Bikes: Colnago, Marinoni, Columbine, Schwinn Paramount, Raleigh International, Raleigh Professional, 1893 Crescent Juno, 1896 Crescent No.1, 1899 Crescent No.18, 1896 Columbia 40, 1902 Pierce Special, 1903 Pierce Special, 1905 Pierce Special Racer,
Originally Posted by
bulgie
OK, as long as you know that soldering is not strong enough. Even silver-bearing solders are not strong enough for a brake bridge. You need to silver braze a bridge. But a lot of bikies call that silver soldering — it's sort of a traditional jargon in the bike world that's technically inaccurate, but it's fine as long as you actually braze it!
Most silver brazing alloys are a bit on the "runny" side for a brake bridge, but they can work if you're careful, with good fit-up, prep, cleanliness, the right flux and flame etc. The higher silver content fillers, 56% for example, tend to be the runnier ones, not good for fillet-building, so I would choose a bit lower silver content, say 45%.
Some bridges come with reinforcing plates that have a little spigot that goes up inside the bridge, like an inside lug, very much increasing the "wetted area" for the silver to grab onto. While that is not strictly necessary, I think with silver it's a good idea. It can help with the safety margin, in case your fit-up, prep, flux or brazing skill are anything less than optimal.
Mark B in Seattle
https://youtu.be/no-OWfC5-RY
Last edited by GiovanniLiCalsi; 11-11-20 at 05:58 AM.