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Old 12-15-20 | 07:52 PM
  #28  
SwimmerMike
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Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Saratoga, CA

Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Specialissima, 1971 Bob Jackson. 2012 Kestrel 4000. 2012 Willier. 2016 Fuji Cross 1.1, 1950 Hetchins, 194X James Fothergill, 1971 Paramount P15, 1973 Paramount P12, 1963 Legnano (x2), 1951 Hetchins, 2024 Canyon Endurace

First real test ride complete. Very mixed results.

Overall shifting accuracy is comparable to down tube set-up I have on my Colnago. I was worried the extra cable length (especially since I haven't swapped out any cables/housing) would impact shifting. The big variables in the "likability" are the direction of shifting and the hand position you are in.

Shifting to a smaller cog/chainring from the drops. "A+" These are phenomenal in this application. You can reach your thumb up just push the lever don't even need to move your hands.

Shifting to a larger cog/chainring from the tops. "B-" works but a little awkward, I could see getting used to it.

Shifting to a smaller cog/chainring from the tops. "B" works but requires some funny moves, again, I can see getting used to it.

Shifting from the hoods. "B" Again. Comparable hand moves.

Shifting to a larger cog/chainring from the drops. "D-" Not a complete fail, but having to lift your hand up and shift can be really bad. Reaching to the downtime is natural and your body can stay down, the up-reach causes more body moves.

Shifting both levers (The bike has a half-step in front, so I would normally do a lot of shifting of chainring and freewheel in the same reach) "C-" not easy to do, requires shifting one then the other (not really able to do both at once since you are de-weighting your hand to shift), vs. the simple reach down and shift both levers (maybe not simultaneously) in one motion for shifters on the downtime.
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