Originally Posted by
dddd
The surfaces now have to be prepared with abrasives and with flux before re-brazing can be done, so you have to get the parts completely separated first.
I'm not sure if the order of operations now will be optimum, since the fork blades are now brazed in. But a framebuilder can fixture everything to allow the steerer to be brazed in. Paint around the crown will of course will be gone when all is done, so probably easier to find a replacement fork at this point.
The steerer should still be strong after the repair.
This is a ~1973 Raleigh, right?
No, it is about 1973, but it is a Witcomb USA. They had a higher-end bike, full Reynolds db531 with Campy fork ends and dropouts, and they had a mass-produced one made of 531 plain gauge throughout, stamped dropouts and fork ends. While the BBs are cotterpin, I don't think they are the Raleigh threading. I should check that by trying to thread in a BSA cartridge BB. These bikes are the lower-end frame and fork.
As far as order of operations, we've been planning to send them out for painting. I think we'll still do that and see what the paint/frame shop says. I've alerted my friend he might end up having a new fork built and some common prices for that, but he is not too concerned.