Your wheel has issues. If the DS can be up to 135 which seems a little high to me, then you shouldn't have anything below 100, your numbers suggest 105, and I'd actually shoot for 120 just to have some wiggle room either way. If you don't have a truing stand this will be a tough job but can be done with the frame to a decent degree with some careful effort.
If I was dealing with this I would use a light lube on ever spoke nipple at the rim to make them turn easier, get that to soak in a bit, then bring every drive side spoke to 85 (+/- 2 not knowing how accurate your tool is) since that's a nice middle number. Once done I would bring all the NDS to about 45, same reason. Dish and straight wouldn't matter in this process. Once done give the DS a double check to make sure you didn't send any too far out of wack and get them back to that 85. Now true the wheel using a proper tighten/loosen technique, for each you tighten you loosen one the same or 2 half the amount which you'll need to do more with the half the number of NDS spokes. Once the wheel is straight move it to center. Do a quarter turn, the first time, if more is needed do a 1/4 tight and 1/4 loosen of the other side. Your tension should be low enough still to not worry too much. Once you have the wheel close to final dish recheck true and then make it round. Once round double check the spoke tension and tighten all the spokes around the wheel till the DS is 120, if this keeps the NDS below the recommended rate go to 125 or even the 130 but don't go crazy on this as nipples can get hard to turn. Now stress the wheel. I usually place the wheel on the floor and lightly push on the rim moving around in a circle, flip it and do it again. Re-true and do it one last time. The goal is to add a little pressure on the rim so the spokes can reset themselves not to warp the rim. When pushing on the NDS I would have my hands at the spokes. You can do the same by grabbing sets of spokes and squeezing them by hand but I find it doesn't work quite as well.