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Old 01-22-21 | 03:28 PM
  #21  
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Unca_Sam
The dropped
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Joined: Oct 2018
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From: Columbus, OH

Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)

Originally Posted by tiger1964
I know; should have added a "wink". Hmm, what is "PT"?



On a different part, I had already contacted the chrome shop I use and do have blasting facilities - but I did not ask what media.



Doh! And I have a good selection of wood shim stock, a little trimming on the end would have worked.



If my results were like that, I'd be pleased. That said,

(a) 1st attempt with the aircraft paint stripper wasn't that much better than the wood stripper... OK, somewhat better. But I see 2-3 more coats to get everything out of the corners, like where the fork blades enter the crown. It's 55F in the unheated basement, and maybe it would work better if I brought the project into the heated part of the house. I recall stripping the car, the stuff did not work for beans in the cold of a neighbor's unheated garage; a few warm days and the paint all came off.

(b) I have enough off the blades now that I can see the underlying chrome. Dull. I tried the electric buffer and it did not brighten up. So, a lot of work to get to bare metal -- and it is still going to the chrome shop. Sigh.
That right there tells you all you need to know. You're going to have it blasted, right? So save the chemicals and time and get started on figuring out the costs of blasting and chroming. I know locally (Columbus, OH) there are a handful of outfits that will blast with dry ice, soda, on up to the heavier blasting media, depending on the goal and substrate.
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