no manufacturer of power tool battery would allow for not monitoring group of cells.
Powell, at least for Makita batteries, you are wrong. You obviously have never opened and studied tool batteries, certainly not Makita's, but you are an "expert" not interested in learning what you already think you know and you express your "knowledge" in a very condescending manner.
Maiktas have heavy red and black wires connected directly from the ends of the 5s cell groups to the output terminal's of the battery. There is nothing except a 100amp fuse on the newer genuine Matika's to monitor discharge. Makita clones, and older genuine Makitas don't even have the fuse, but the positive tab is designed to melt if the battery is shorted.
All the other circuitry is for safe charging and to
refuse charging if a problem is detected. I feel like I'm repeating myself.
there are at minimum 4 black wires in your picture, cannot see in the back.
one black wire is main wire going to terminal but 3 other black wires are for what?
The heavy black wire, top right of the picture connects directly to the neg output of the battery. No relays, no mosfets....nothing but copper wire and solder. The small black wire next it to connects to the - of the LED voltmeter - (state of charge meter) . The other two black wires go from the + charging port to a thermal switch buried between the cells and then to the + of the 5s cell stack. If the cells get too hot, it stops charging. That's it.....no hidden wires on the other side.
Notice there is no monitoring of individual cells during charge or discharge. That's true of Makita clones and older genuine Makita batteries. Recent Makita batteries (when they started making 4.0, 5.0 and 6.0ah) now monitor individual cell voltages and may balance charge. Other than the fuse, they have no way to shut down a discharge. Newer tools have a LVC in the tool and will stop if the voltage get too low, but there is no BMS in the battery to do that function. IF you connect a load without a LVC or timer it will discharge until the battery voltage is zero.
I 've opened a few other brand batteries that look to have similar circuitry, but I would never pretend to be an expert on all tool batteries.
I've forgotten what this has to do with trying to keep my E+ on the road. Something about blaming tool batteries for errors. Does the E+ knows or care where 36v30a comes from? The designers of the E+ were USA Gods, so maybe.
Right now I'm going to let my E+ sit for a while. Nothing new. Fortunately, I have a stable of 10 varied single and tandem ebikes I've built with trouble free and great performance. Don't need 10 batteries, just one set mounts in seconds on which ever bike I choose to ride.