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Old 02-18-21 | 05:20 PM
  #6  
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niswanger
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 63
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From: Round Rock, TX

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Hi gang, I'm resurrecting this old thread. I have a Suntour Freewheel that I want to restore to pristine condition, don't care how long it takes to make each cog look like new. I'm taking the FW apart as well and adding new bearings. I'm also recondition the original chain, don't want a new chain. I'm pretty sure I don't have the "Hyper-Glide" version. I'm posting a pic of my jig I made below. Note that my FW top lock cup for the bearings is not broken free yet, I assume that's not necessary, probably should have broken it free before taking it off the wheel, but because I didn't have the right tool (I have 4 cassette/FW Park tools, just not the one for this FW) I had a LBS break it free for me, but I think once the cogs are all off I can hold the inner FW hub tight enough to get that to spin off (CW as it's reverse threaded) with my spanner tool.

As for the cog removal, I only have one Park chain whip so holding the entire FW like this should work, but as it is it's not budging. Again, soaked in PB blaster for a day, I've tapped lightly with a small ball peen hammer on the face of the smallest cog (to promote shock movement), I've use a large rubber mallet whilst holding the chain whip to pound the handle of the chain whip and finally I did apply some heat using my MAP gas torch to the first cog, but didn't want to heat too much to damage anything. I don't get it, I'm a 230lb man, leaning my entire body on this thing. I am turning it CCW as they are right-hand threaded, which makes sense else the damn then would never stay on the wheel hub. I'm at a loss...next step is I have the first 2 cogs literally submerged in PB blaster (will sit over-night) and then use some sort of 2X4 cut so it connects to the end of the chain whip handle for a cheater bar. Any tips? Please let me know?


Last edited by niswanger; 02-18-21 at 10:37 PM.
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