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Old 03-10-21 | 01:24 PM
  #30  
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merziac
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Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Originally Posted by Johno59
I'm impressed that folks can tell that the bearing race of a fixed cup isn't damaged/worn out from looking from the drive side into the BB abyss. Putting new ball-bearing in a worn out race will not improve anything.
The advice to do the fixed first is very sound. The rigid spindle acts as a fulcrum as your tool bares down on the shoulder of the raised portion of the bearing face. This way all the force is contained within the BB shell which is very tough - unlike a frame's seatpost, crossbar etc secured in a vice.
The use of a Jimmy bar is likely to damage the frame so I would avoid it.
Hoping lubricant will creep into a 40mm thread that has been stuck solid for 10,20,...50 years is delusional.
Heat works but only if your tooling up can apply maximum mechanical force and the paint work is of no concern.
The tightening bolt approach just slips uselessly in my experience, as well as crushing the race.
The moral of the tale - lube everything once a year and these components will turn out with little effort and in doing so, they'll outlive you.
This stand supports the BB very well and while a long cheater bar has overpowered every fixed cup, it is very swift without undo stress on the frame and no struggling that would twist or hurt the frame. They always crack loose very quickly for me when setup correctly.

As I stated above and many times, this method has never failed or hurt any tools, parts, frames or flesh.


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