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Old 03-29-21 | 07:40 PM
  #32  
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79pmooney
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

Originally Posted by due ruote
This makes sense to me. The only way to have it right is to ride and adjust, incrementally, until you find the sweet spot. I would define that as the nose low enough that you don't get numbness, but high enough that you don't slide forward, which is fatiguing on the arms and shoulders. The angle will vary depending on the type of saddle (this should be obvious).
If I ever tear a bike down or remove the saddle for any reason, I take a scrap stick of wood and hold it vertically against the top tube, and make a mark for the saddle nose. If the stick is long enough, do the same thing for a measurement from stem to saddle nose. This way you can quickly get the saddle back to a position that likely took some time and effort to arrive at in the first instance.
I use a plumb bob and measure back from the bottom bracket because that translates bite to bike and stems don't matter. For saddle tilt, a yardstick and measure down to the handlebars. (Yes, subject to change with stem height but that's getting dialed in on the road anyway.)
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