View Single Post
Old 05-14-21 | 10:02 AM
  #16  
cyccommute's Avatar
cyccommute
Mad bike riding scientist
Titanium Club Membership
20 Anniversary
Community Builder
Community Influencer
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,167
Likes: 6,235
From: Denver, CO

Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones

Originally Posted by carsonmc724
I want to get into more tour-distance riding and currently have a 1997 aluminum Trek 1220 road bike. I've been reading about frame differences and am investigating a touring bike for myself.
There's a BTWIN Tiban 100 (aluminum) in my area for $200 that seems to have a more hybridized frame and components better suited for touring.
There's a vintage Takara Delux Touring (pretty sure steel) in my area for $200. Read reviews that's a lower model from the 80s era but can have a decent lifespan.
There's a 2014 REI Novara Randonee (steel) in my area for $450 (more than I'd like to spend). Newer bike but not a brand I know?

1) Would it be worth it to try and take my Trek 1220 and outfit it with more touring components (tires, etc.)? Or is the frame just too light and unstable?
2) Which starter bike for touring seems good?
To throw one more bike into the mix to consider, look at the Trek Verve. Yes, it’s a hybrid but the frame is long and stable. It has 18” chainstays...classic touring bike length...that allows you to put a load further back on the bike and still stay centered over the rear axle. More load further forward results in a much more stable ride. It’s also got a long wheel base like a classic touring bike. Additionally, it has all the rack mounts you need for touring racks. It will also take really wide tires which many older touring bikes can’t handle.

It has some warts too. Gearing is okay but could be better. The high front end might be an issue. Flat bars aren’t the best for long days in the saddle. I’m not a fan of threaded headsets but they do work well enough. It is also somewhat inexpensive compared to other new touring bike.


Originally Posted by robow
How could I forget, duh ! The two greatest things that are often deal breakers for me when it comes to "Can I tour on this bike ?".....lack of low gearing and the inability to use wider tires (maybe a 3rd would be lack of braze ons, but even that can often be overcome)
Gearing can always be changed. It’s not cheap but it is fairly easy. The real issue with the 1220 is that is a race bike with 16.3” chainstays and no provisions for racks. It’s also a light frame which can be susceptible to speed wobble (AKA death wobble). Aluminum doesn’t tend to have that problem as much as steel but with a light frame and a load, it could develop.

​​​
Originally Posted by saddlesores
for the first, a saddlebag and a handlebar bag would suffice on your current bike.
for the second...........get back to us.
I know that a lot of people are using bikepacking bags on road bikes but I really question that choice. I use bikepacking bags for off-road touring because the narrow profile and more secure attachment work better in that situation but carrying the load that high does have an impact on the handling of the bike. I have to be more careful on downhills and in corners because the way those bags work significantly raise the center of gravity of the bike. Add in a short bike with quick steering and the results are less than desirable.
__________________
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!





cyccommute is offline  
Reply