Old 05-19-21 | 11:52 PM
  #4  
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thook
(rhymes with spook)
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,788
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From: Winslow, AR

Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3

[MENTION=31549]kahn[/MENTION] i would imagine a motorized bike forum would be a good place for a recommendation, if they're of any salt like a good professional auto mechanic. iow's, certain auto repair jobs have a fairly standard "assumed" torque value to go by. wheel lug nuts, for example

mr. stewart makes very good points, though. torque values are meaningless if there's friction in the adjoining parts. to use automobiles as an example once again, one better be quite sure the head bolt bores in the engine block are free of ALL debris, rust, dirt, etc before torquing down. otherwise you'll get false torque readings from resistance and blow the gasket/s from uneven clamp force. so, with your case of attaining values with a clicker wrench, then no...it's not really a good idea to go by that. mr. stewart's "clocking" advice while noting the amount turns is a good idea. but, again, make sure threads are clean and you start from a point of hand tightening as far as it'll go.

as for saddles, meh...i've always just snugged them up real good without actually stripping hardware. i've also done a lot of wrenching, though. the feel thing, eh...
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