reapplying a proper grease and then turning 180 degrees after it is finger tight (two finger grip) is safe enough. you get to know how much that finger tight means once you back off by 180 degrees after you measure 7-10Nm. one more thing: that adjustment should be more precise to achieve proper bearings preload (not too much, not too little). having quick release can vary much more on the preload than what you can get on the road with a pitlock using this method. you don't want to spend minutes measuring wheel spin differences each time you mount the wheel in the frame. what i do with pitlocks is i have them marked so i know the angle i need to reach while tightening. and i would only need to carry a 5mm hex key which is much smaller and i would also need it in case my handlebar (stem) is moved from an accident etc.

the steel grade is very high and therefore vulnerable to corrosion and embrittlement once galling happens.

"There are three requirements for failure due to hydrogen embrittlement:

• A susceptible material.
• Exposure to an environment that contains hydrogen.
• The presence of tensile stress on the component.

High-strength steels with tensile strength greater than about 145 ksi (1000 MPa) are the alloys most vulnerable to hydrogen embrittlement."

be careful which lubricant you use, avoid copper and moly based greases. i'd say a safer bet (although not the best but it's quite readily available) would be beeswax or surf wax - both are sticky enough. you could mix such wax with a bit of GL4 gear oil. and avoid candle wax - it is crap, no need to explain why.