I'm in the process of doing this with a 2016 Cannondale frame that I just bought, but I might have a leg up on you in that I've worked at a couple of different bike shops in the past, and was sure to pick a frame that I could work on (mechanical shifting, BSA bottom bracket). In your case, I would do the following:
- If you don't know what headset and BB specs go into this frame, take it to a shop to have those installed (and make sure to pick a crank that works with whichever BB is getting installed). You'll save yourself a bit of grief by doing that.
- Find the specs for the original fork. You'll probably want to match the length and trail figures as closely as you can to avoid spooky steering. If you're not comfortable around a saw (or cutting a carbon steerer), bring your fork to the shop to get it cut down. Make sure to leave plenty of room for spacers to start out with.
- While you're there, get your crown race installed, too - that's fairly simple, but a freakin' pita. I used a PVC pipe over my fork's steerer tube, and started out with a mallet. Then I switched to a real hammer. Finally, I turned the fork + PVC pipe upside down and smacked the PVC pipe on the sidewalk to get the crown race seated. If a shop's willing to do it for $10 with a Park crown race tool and a ball peen hammer... let them.
- Do you have a set of tools to get you started? If not, you're going to want:
1. A good set of Allen keys for uncommon sizes
2. A Park Y-tool for your 4/5/6mm hex bolts (trust me, very useful)
3. A few metric wrenches for doing up brake bolts or other standard bolts you come across
4. Cable/housing cutters to get that clean edge (pliers, tin snips, and kitchen sheers won't cut it. no pun intended)
5. Cassette lockring and chainwhip
6. Bearing press for your BB, if you're doing it yourself. May need it for headset, too, but unlikely for this frame
7. You're working on carbon, so a torque wrench
8. Ample grease (not motor oil, lube, or WD-40), a bit of carbon paste, and even a dab of loctite
9. Nice to haves: calipers for measuring sizes/distances, a pedal wrench (though you may be able to use your regular wrenches or a 6mm Allen key, depending on your pedals), hairspray (for flat-bar grips)
I already had most of these when I started, so my list of tools really only came down to a cassette lockring tool and chainwhip. I also got a Park Tool PCS 4.2 because I always wanted my own stand after working on them in the shops.
Now, once you have all of the tools, there are a few places to get decent deals. I often start at Chain Reaction or Performance/Nashbar, and expand to PBK (had good luck with these guys and wheels) and Competitive Cyclist from there. I've seen deals at Merlin, but I don't think I've ever gotten anything from there. Amazon is better for tools than for name brand components, though you might be able to find some overstock components on Ebay.