Originally Posted by
tricky
The top end of your target range for your spindle length is only 3.5 mm from the length of the spindle you have. I am wondering if you cheat a bit and add a 4mm spacer between the locking cup on the NDS and bottom bracket shell. This would shift the spindle to the left a bit, but then your drive side BB cup would need to be long enough/have enough threads to put enough preload on the bearings AND give the lock ring enough threads outside the BB shell to work properly. You could dry fit this even without a spacer by threading in the fixed cup but leaving it backed out 4 mm, then install the rest of the BB to see if this would work.
To be clear, I haven't tried this before. Just brainstorming an option. Someone with personal experience might chime in here and offer up first hand experience on if this is a good idea or not.
Unless I'm misunderstanding you, that won't work. All it will do is move the NDS lockring a few mm to the left and add a couple of grams of weight. It will do nothing about moving either cup, DS or NDS, and hence will not do anything about repositioning the spindle. The fixed cup can only go so far in. You can move it outward some with spacers, but the BB shell is kind of a hard stop for moving it inbound. (Not true with Phil Wood BBs and some others that don't have a lip on the DS cup, but you aren't dealing with those.)
Good luck. Trying to figure out what BB dimension to use has always been a (frustrating) challenge for me. Here's hoping you nail it the first time.