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Old 10-01-21 | 11:13 AM
  #36  
SoSmellyAir
Method to My Madness
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 4,731
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From: Orange County, California

Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse x2, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata 3

Originally Posted by pumpkinhed
Not sure if I'm understanding your post, but are you recommending drilling out all rivets, removing all sprockets, and then reattaching a new chainring that works with the new chain/cassette/RD?
Yes, I think this was SkinGriz 's recommendation.

Originally Posted by pumpkinhed
Would there be alignment issues or can everything be adjusted?
Assuming that (a) the existing chain line (i.e., imaginary line drawn from middle chain ring to middle of cassette) is good (i.e., parallel to top tube from bird's eye view), and (b) new chain ring is the same thickness and attached to the middle chain ring position, then no. But contrary to SkinGriz 's recommendation, I would recommend against using washers or spacers to attach the chain ring to the crank arms.

Originally Posted by pumpkinhed
And if I drill out rivets do I need to tap to make new threads for bolts to reattach the chainring?
No, I don't think so. If the holes in the carrier (after removal of rivets) are not big enough, carefully drill to enlarge each hole (while maintain the same center) such that the hole will fit a regular chain ring bolt and nut.

Originally Posted by pumpkinhed
For me, this is my only bike and I'm not against putting money into it to make it work properly.
In that case, if the above drilling does not work out, you can spend $60 for new crank arms and $30 for new bottom bracket like I did.
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