Originally Posted by
Crang
Interesting, that helps. The right chainstay is dimpled and its all Tange 2 I believe. In my other life its common to hard chrome metal parts to make them resistant to erosion from burning hot gases and to reduce wear. It certainly raises the surface hardness, so didnt know if it changes its bendability. The drill rod method is simply nuts and washers on a 3/8" drill rod placed inside the dropouts. The nuts are turned to force the washers apart thereby spreading the chainstays evenly by applying equal pressure to both. However after reading your post, if the dimpled side requires more force to bend, i may end up pushing the left side out further........
Allow me to extract the few
bold-highlighted words from within your post! (and it's all-thread, not drill-rod).
In other words, definitely not a good idea to force the two sides apart and expect both sides to bend near-equally.
Usually, one side bends well (or entirely) before the other side does, and for reasons going beyond the crimping (as when there is no crimping).
RJ's videos contain useful information if applied only with real descretion to any bicycles of quality.
Certain of his video's contents nearly remind me of a freshly-stoked meth-head
if applied to a quality bicycle.
BTW, many meth-heads definitely work on bicycles, seems one of their favorite pastimes (note that I
don't think RJ is a meth-head, and that I perhaps jest with such extreme wording).
A chainstay with more crimping will be the first to bend, due roughly to the reduced moment of inertia of the crimped section.
So one may very well end up with the driveside dropout heavily offset, versus the non-driveside dropout.
This can be good if used with a dedicated custom wheel having a biased dish, both in terms of wheel strength and in terms of chainline (especially with triple cranks, even more so if combined with an oversized seat tube).