Rocks will be thrown at you but the small ones don't hurt and people can't throw the big ones very far anyway. Watch for people with brooms hiding behind trees. Brooms are for the spokes. To minimize rock-throwing and broom spoking, learn a few basic words like "bonjour" et "merci" et the all useful "je ne parle pas français". That, a smile and some gestures (except one-finger salute) go a long way.

I'm a fan of the north shore after Québec City. Not that the south is boring but after cycling the St-Lawrence flatlands for a while, the north shore east of Quebec City offers diversity. And just about everybody going across Canada ride the south shore.

Between Montréal and Québec, you basically follow the 138, "Chemin du Roy" or Route Verte N°5. They are usually the same road. In a few places, the "Chemin du Roy" Route Verte take a different road. Take it as that's when the shoulder disappears on the 138 (though traffic is not that bad). Many fruit stands on the 138 around the Neuville. Oh, and don't miss the "most beautiful street in Canada" according to some newspaper (Globe and Mail). Well, it's just a pretty street with old houses.

After Québec City, you can cross the river on Québec Bridge or the ferry. I suggest the ferry. Or you can continue onthe north shore. Whatever you do, take a little ride around the port, the old port where there's a public market with lotsa goodies for a hungry cyclist. Adjacent to the market is a bike shop. This is all right on the bike path. Ask the shop to park inside while your stomach guides you to the market. Then, unless you're in a big hurry and decide to ride the south shore, Follow indications and ride the handful of kilometers towards Domaine Les Maizerêts and Chute Montmorency. Have an ice cream at Véloasis.

If you decide to stay on the north shore, continue to Montmorency falls. Keep going and you'll find Dugal street parallel to Ste-Anne boulevard. Keep going or take a left to reach Royale avenue. When Dugal street ends, you have to ride Ste-Anne boulevard with the fast traffic. (in fall 2005, there was a mud path that looked to be a future bike path). Fortunaly, it has humongous shoulders, as big as a lane. Every once in a while, you'll see a perpendicular street connecting with Royale avenue. This is the old, quiet, go-through-village option. You can switch between the two boulevards many times, depending on how you feel. With its straight, large, and new shoulder, you just wanna time-trial on Ste-Anne boulevard.

A few kilometers east of the impressive Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré Cathedral, you might regret choosing the north shore. The road goes vertical and looks like a wall, literally.

But you shouldn't continue on the 138 at that point:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=f...01778,0.043259

Ride towards Mont St-Anne and St-Féréol-les-Neiges on the 360. No shoulders but quiet country side road, and you'll pass the worst of the 138. When the road goes back to the 138, you'll have a short distance to do on a 4 lane highway. Traffic is fast and furious but there's enough room. Shoulders are ridiculously small. Soon the shoulder widens. Lots of climbing, 2km descent, more climbing, then downhill all the way to Baie St-Paul.

Another option from Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré is to continue on Royale avenue and route des Carrières (it was posted as Royale ave when I passed). But this implies some crazy-nut climbing, and going back to the 138 sooner than you'd want just to have to climb some more, and then even more climbing on Avenue de la Montagne to avoid the 138 as much as possible. Drag the Google map east to see where it goes.

From Baie-St-Paul, take the 362 to La Malbaie. That road doesn't have many shoulders but a few are well-placed on difficult climbs. It's well worth it though.

Somewhere on the 362 is the ferry to Île-aux-Coudres. Nice place for a rest day, if you don't mind climbing the steep hill . Camping Sylvie is nice and cheap (12$ in 2005). It's on the right after climbing the hill after the ferry. That hill is short but it's the worst because everybody waiting for the ferry is watching you.

I'm writing something on the north shore route. I'll post it when it's translated in a coherent English.