cyrano138 As merziac said... Sometime a slight adjustment of as little as 1/8" of an inch (3mm) in saddle height and or 1° in the angle can make a big difference for me... but then I suffer from the Eddy Merckx Syndrome:
Eddy adjusting his saddle on the go... (I don't do this but if I haven't been riding for a while I may stop several times and make minor adjustments)
What I look or feel for is a balance in the pressure between my pelvic bones, my feet and my hands. If I haven't been on a bike for a while or with a new or different saddle, after
MY butt is broken back in (2-3 rides) I'm set to go. When everything is adjusted right for me, it feels like the bike's not there.
Ischial Tuberosities - They're wider in most women and narrower in most men. That's why seats designed for women are wider in the rear.
Back to Brooks Pro saddles... This is the original saddle on my almost all original 1967 Peugeot PX-10. It has the same kind of cracking on the top surface as your saddle. I'd keep an eye on the gouge in the rear. If it starts to change it may be a crack forming.
...
I use an old toothbrush to get it into the tight spaces in the underside at the nose. I also use a hair dryer set on low to get the Proofide to soak in better.
A lot of products labeled "neatsfoot oil" contain petroleum based oils... Some are ALL petroleum based oil. Petroleum will damage leather!
Found this saddle in New Mexico a few years back. Someone had been ridding it this way !!!
The Tange Champion 2 tubing on your bike has basically the same wall thickness as Columbus SL tubing and it's made with the same 4130 alloy steel. It should be a great riding bike.
One last thing, the stem on your "new" bike looks a little high. Stems and seatposts should be inserted a minimum of 75mm-80mm (3").
verktyg
