Originally Posted by
cxwrench
Sounds like you've never seen one. There are 2 major differences that you'd know if you ever had...wanna tell me what they are? Yes, this is a test. It's very easy for anyone that's worked on one of them. 'Very few problems'? A single one is enough to keep it from working properly. And no...the Di2 derailleurs are more similar to 'normal' derailleurs then the toggle link are. Go ahead, tell me what you think the 2 big differences are. They're pretty obvious.
What? You mean the little bolt that puts pressure on the braze-on to stabilize the body and the bolt to adjust cable tension? Those are 2 fairly minor differences and really don’t impact much. The added bolt to put pressure on the braze-on is an interesting and welcome addition to that kind of derailer which were pretty awful. The cable tension adjustment could be adjusted elsewhere by in-line or frame tension adjusters.
Neither of those are “big differences”. Minor…and welcome…refinements but not something that fundamentally changes how a derailer is set up.
I’ve already said I haven’t worked on one. But I have read the manual and looked at videos on how to install one. They aren’t all that different from any other front derailer. And certainly not something that makes it so that I need to know what kind of derailer is on the bike to offer advice on how to make adjustments based on what information has been provided.
And, finally, just because I don’t see a lot of newer bikes doesn’t mean I have no experience. I’ve worked on thousands of bikes. There is very little that I haven’t seen or fixed. It’s all pretty much the same and approached in the same manner.