Old 11-05-21 | 04:18 AM
  #36  
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verktyg
verktyg
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,034
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From: SF Bay Area

Bikes: Current favorites: 1988 Peugeot Birraritz, 1984 Gitane Super Corsa, 1980s DeRosa, 1981 Bianchi Campione Del Mondo, 1992 Paramount OS, 1988 Colnago Technos, 1985 RalieghUSA SBDU Team Pro

A Silly Little Millimeter Longer

dddd et al....

Reference my post above: https://www.bikeforums.net/newreply....ply&p=22293819

1960's Cancer Stick Ads for 100mm and 101mm long carcinogenic devices:



Somethings to consider... 3mm is less than 1/8"... Measure 3mm or 1/8" and then hold your fingers apart that much and look through the gap!

I threw this Flickr Album together one night 10 years ago when I was building a SS wet weather beater. I was looking for a BB combo using parts that I had on hand. Read my notes below the photos.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/282672...57627678462359

Bottom line: IF IT FITS - IT WORKS!

When crank arms are removed and reinstalled or when they are re-torqued, the aluminum deforms and the arms move further up the BB spindle/axle each time. When installing used arms, there's no telling what their history is. Before mounting them, I slip them onto the spindle to see how far they go on or if they will work at all.



Next I thread in a fixed cup and using caged 1/4" ball bearings I put the spindle into the BB and then slide the drive side crankarm on till it stops. That will give me an idea of how close the inner chainring comes to the chain stay. Bear in mind that when tightened the crankarm will fit on 2mm to 3mm closer.

One of the caveats about buying used cranksets is what condition are the squares in. If they have been wallowed out from running loose or have stretched too far from frequent re-tightening you have a problem.

A simple fix that sometimes works when the cranks fit too far on the spindle is to put a second washer under the crank bolt to take up some space. File or grind the opening of the washer so that it will pass over the end of the spindle.

NEXT: Chain Line.... Precise Chain Line was/is an obsessional British affectation when using stiff 1/8" chains on Fixed, Single Speed or Internal Gear Hubs.

With the advent of flexible 3/32" chains in the late 70's chainline is not that much of in issue if it's close enough - if you can easily shift on and off of all of the rear sprockets. One concern is when the chain is on the small chain ring, making sure that it doesn't rub or drag on the inside of the big ring when you are using the smallest rear sprockets. It's more of an issue with triples.

Common sense and tradition says don't use Big-Big and Small-Small chainring - rear sprocket combos.

Consider 9,10,11 and 12 tooth cassettes and how much a chain has to deflect to cover the full width.

BTW, how wide are the 10, 11 and 12 speed cassettes. After 15 minutes of searching was how wide the chains were???

verktyg
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Last edited by verktyg; 11-05-21 at 04:27 AM.
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