Well, if you wanted DT shifters, Campy did make a shifter clamp with the pump umbrella built in, part # 635:Personally, for a touring bike, I'd prefer bar-end shifters, in which case you want a Campy # 633:About that rear mech: yes it's a boat anchor and not the snappiest shifter. But if you want to keep it, it's possible to make it shift better. The balance between the upper and lower springs determines the "angle of the dangle", and yours is pulled too far back, at least in that one photo. Honestly I don't remember how the spring pre-load is adjusted, but I can find out for you if you need me to. They used to teach it at Schwinn School, back when a couple models of Schwinn came with these. You either need to back off the pre-load on the upper spring, or (more likely) increase the lower. This will shorten the amount of chain between the jockey pulley and the bottom of the freewheel, a big factor in shifting performance.

They do have enough chain-wrap capacity to go to a wider-range triple in front, if interested. Someone here already mentioned replacing the right crank with one with better (smaller) choices of granny ring, but you can also keep this crank, if you replace your middle ring with a "triplizer" ring. (Link shows the one made by BF's own Jon Vara, worthy of your support!) A triplizer ring has another set of mounting holes, at the 74 mm bolt-circle that takes commonly-available inner rings as small as 24t. You don't have to go all the way to 24t of course, lots of other choices, and something like 30 or 32t might be more in keeping with the original design intent.

There are also people, such as Robert Freeman of North Bend WA, who can drill and tap your 5 spider arms to take a smaller granny directly, not connected to a triplizer middle ring.

Since you already have the longer crank spindle needed for triple, either of these methods that keep your existing crank would be an easy upgrade.

Good luck, and show us how it turns out!

Merry Christmas
Mark B