Old 01-08-22 | 01:21 PM
  #14  
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Unca_Sam
The dropped
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Joined: Oct 2018
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From: Columbus, OH

Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1969 Raleigh Superbe, 1986 Miyata Nine : 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold), 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)

Originally Posted by GameHasNoName
I'm planning to get at maximum 165mm crankset (or 160, if those are available) and hoping it will work fine in terms of pedal strike with SPD or SPD-SL pedals, but I think I will still hit front wheel with my shoes in slow turns because of my 43EU shimano cycling shoes that fits me well (and I typically use 42 for non-cycling shoes). Unsure, if I can do anything about it. What do you think?
I tend not to worry about toe overlap. I wear 44-45 shoes for cycling and it's only a concern on my road bikes at extreme low speed (basically stopped). As far as pedal strikes go, clipless pedals tend to be as narrow as you can get before the meaningful variable is your foot; the SPD system has the benefit of being recessed so you can walk more easily.

The biggest thing I didn't think of when setting up my fixed gear was that your speed is all about cadence. When riding with traffic, I can adjust my gearing to stay within my aerobic ability on a derailleur bike while maintaining the pace of traffic. The only thing you can do is pedal faster on a fixed gear, and you have to keep it up unless you want to get bucked off of the saddle. So I'm mostly slower when riding mine.
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