Originally Posted by bampilot06

have not had that happen yet. I had the rear wheel not what to open once in Dallas. That was a head scratcher.

I’ve been talking to seattle forrest, he has a C3 with ardennes and hasn’t ever had brake rub problems. So now I wonder if it’s the cheaper carbon my bike is made of, or the super teams, though they seem bullet proof not sure what that says about flex’s.

if I put my bontrager wheel on the cervelo to test out the wheel theory, would it matter that the rotor on the bontrager wheel is sram? I would not touch the brake. I could tell in a matter of seconds whether or not the rub was there.

Originally Posted by WhyFi

If a closet door is sticking, you don't try a different door - you make sure that the hinges are tight, that the frame is plumb and that the door is square. Everything else is a shot in the dark and a waste of time when the basics haven't yet been addressed, IMO.

If there's no rub in the stand but there's rub on the road, that obviously means that there's a change in relative position between the rotor and pads. The rotor is bolted to a solid, machined hub. The hub is being held in place by a ~1/2" thick axle. The axle is fastened in to the dropouts and there's only a couple inches of carbon fork between the axle and caliper - there's virtually no room for movement if everything is secured properly. If things aren't secured properly and if things aren't quite square and true, you get problems like you're getting.

Make sure your rotor is true and properly tightened. Make sure your calipers are centered and aligned. Make sure you're consistently tightening the thru-axel. If you can't consistently tighten the TA because if its design, get a Robert axle and use a torque wrench. Done and done.