A good approach might well be - 1) check driveside spokes for tension. (I would guess the right shop would be willing to tell you this if you wanted to save on the meter cost.) 2) try turning a spoke or two. Do they turn smoothly or is this a fight? If turning is easy 3) loosen non-drive side if indicated and tighten non-drive side, tweak true as needed. If turning nipples is difficult AND a touch more dish is OK; both for chainline and derailleur reach, then 3A) move that spacer (or more likely, find thinner spacers and juggle accordingly) then re-adjust derailleur and cable tension.

You have a good wheel except it was built with a touch more dish than necessary. Messing with that good wheel by adjusting the spokes may upset that balance, leaving you with a problem wheel. Swapping spacers means a less optimum setup for chainline and derailleurs but you haven't messed with the basic good wheel. (Yes, the wheel brought bask to proper dish is theoretically better than what you have now but only if all the spokes are happy, no built-in twists, nipples still in good shape and spoke prep right.)

Now, if this was one of my 32 or 36 spoke wheels, built with long lasting grease, not locking spoke prep, I'd pull the dish out in a flash. But unless I was willing to perhaps need to loosen all the spokes, replace nipples as needed and tighten/true like this was a new wheel, I'd be very cautious about adjusting the dish..