Originally Posted by
merziac
Yep, when ever I have a hangup, I clean it spotless, get out the strong reading glasses and a right angle pick. Starting from the inside I scribe the pick through the threads mm by mm in the unscrewing direction, sometimes the anomaly is so small you barely notice it with the pick but it works better after you scribe it. You can push some pretty bad gacks into a better state doing this, then the anti-seize and chaser can really refine it from there.
Originally Posted by
Road Fan
I used it very extensively on wheel axles, hub cones, BB cups, and freewheel threadings when rebuilding my friend's two Witcombs. Used carefully, it's a great way to "subtract" the distorted metal which prevents threads from interleaving. When the damage was done the possibility of a full strength joint was reduced, but with the ability to join restored, a lot of bikes can be good enough.
Originally Posted by
merziac
I like to use the scribeing method or chasers first, they can push the displaced material back in place and it will fill the the void closer to what it was and stay that way if we properly clean and tighten it as well as using some thread locker, red at least or SG.
Thanks for these details guys! Next investments: a pick and a thread file! Can a 1mm (25.4tpi) file also be used on a 24 tpi (1.06mm) or the pitch must be exactly the same?
FYI on that Italian lockring mentioned above I still haven’t come to a conclusion: it eventually ended up tightening on its cup but doesn’t work anywhere else. Another lockring that tightens everywhere is now a bit looser on this cup. I wonder if a lockring can be harder than a cup at the point of damaging it…
ps: very practical the reading glasses, one of the benefits of aging