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Old 12-03-22 | 10:58 AM
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79pmooney
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

I went to PT for other issues 10 years ago. First thing she had me do was walk the length of the room away from her, turn around and walk back. "Your right leg is shorter." She sent me home with 1/2" heel lifts and told me to use them for all my shoes (or have a cobbler add 1/2" to the sole thickness). I figured going half that thickness between cleat and sole ought to work well on the bike plus up half that thickness for the seat. Made 1/4" shims. Seat up 1/8". Told the PT. She said that was exactly what she would have told me.

On the bike - everything just felt right. And for the first time ever, I could look down and sight along the lined up bike tubes/front wheel. 10 years later, I just take those shims for granted. (The shims, 1/4" aluminum plate drilled through for the cleat bolts and bent to the shape of the sole. Bending 1/4" plate isn't easy! An old bench vise, 5 pound sledge, a large crescent wrench and pipe extension.} Now the MTB style shoes also needed sole extensions and I've glued on sole rubber with 3M 5200. (5200 is good stuff. Expensive, hard to clean up, the tube will cure days after opening so line up a bunch of projects. We used it to glue and seal sailboat decks to the hull. Yes, bolted down every 6 or 8 inches also, but you could remove all the bolts and pick that 34 foot sailboat by the deck (if the fiberglass didn't de-laminate; the 5200 bond wasn't going anywhere).
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