Sure but wax drip lube is very different from hot immersion waxing, so that qualifies your previous statement about 'covering up' wax, and it not being able to get in there. That's a drip wax problem, not a hot wax problem. Back when I used drip wax I also had to do proper deep cleans every so often, now I don't. I don't miss the deep cleans, I dislike handling solvents.
My drip wax is not like any product sold to the public. It has a water-like viscosity so it penetrates deeply. After the carrier solvent evaporates, only the wax and the lubricating oil that's in it remain. It does not attract dirt. The lube isn't as brittle as pure paraffin, so it doesn't just fall off the chain like paraffin. When paraffin falls off the chain, it's left open for grit to get into the wear points, which are the hole in the roller and the bushings formed into the inner plates. Just because you can't see the hidden dirt doesn't mean it isn't there. Elongation is wear between the bushings and the pins. Wear inside the roller does not contribute to elongation, but it can be many times greater than the elongation wear, based on my measurements.
For those who aren't aware, you can buy specialized paraffins that are softer than ordinary canning wax. When I add high quality lubricating oil to canning wax, it softens it and improves lubricity. If I was a hot dip user, I wouldn't use just ordinary canning wax. I also wouldn't buy a ridiculously high priced wax product with a few inexpensive additives.