Originally Posted by
xg5a
This is exactly the sort of concerns I was hoping would be raised here about the chainring spacers route. When you say the spacers must fit tightly to the screws, do you mean in terms of the inside diameter of the spacer matching the outside diameter of the bolts?
I had similar thoughts - with spacers, the crankset spider itself would no longer be supporting the chainrings. So it would just be a matter of friction with the chainring touching the spacers, and the spacers touching the spider. Of course, having the bolts really tight would help as it would maximize this friction. But still, I think if this plan goes wrong, this is where the issue will be.
Here's an example of bolts and spacers that I was thinking of using (I wouldn't need the nuts).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184989039679
Interesting that you say this. It's a brand new chain. And the chainring has about 1000-1500 miles on it. I didn't think that was anywhere near long enough to cause significant chainring wear? The old chain didn't have any measurable stretch when I took it off, I just needed a different length chain as I moved these parts from a different frame to this one.
ID-wise.. as to that chainring... notice that the valley between each tooth is no longer symetrical? the rear wall is more vertical and the front wall of the valley is more laid over toward the front? that's wear.
Also note HOW the chain rollers seat in those valleys? the chain sets high in those valleys towards the exit off the bottom of the ring... A new large chainring might help eliminate most of that gap, since you say the chain is new... Mileage is less of a factor on any bike used off-pavement than visible wear... and all us online mechanics have to go by is the pics posted... Chain ring tooth wear is extrapolative.. the more wear there is, the faster it will wear due to less teeth being presented to the chain under load... the effective diameter of the chainring is reduced because of the wear... at some point the chain's sideplates begin hitting the chainring when the ring has a machined ridge like yours does.... all the wear increases "CHAIN NOISE", which is why you're wanting to alter the chainline, right? "Chain noise" is the chain slipping up and down in those tooth valleys under load, or rubbing against the der. cages, btw,,, I've seen some Tragically worn out chains in the past that made noise, but that chain is "new"....
Based on the pics and info provided, I advise trying a new large Chainring before you move Both chainrings.
Just Curious.. What brand/model/ # of speeds, chain is that? Peened pins, flat sideplates, no markings visible..
and i completely agree with the other responders that mentioned using the small ring more often.. it shows next to no use..