Old thread, indeed, about old wheels.
I have a Peugeot and a Sears bike having original such wheels, but removed them from my 1972 Steyr to use a 100/120mm-spaced Phil/Mod58 wheelset.

The thing with Chrolux rims is that the welded joint along the brake tracks may me smooth, or not. Lots of variation here between samples of random rims.

So I can't really judge random wheelsets without careful inspection or, much better, by trying them on a bike.

The rims are about 750g apiece, which is heavy, but which pales against Schwinn's own chromed 27" rims that weigh about 1100g each. Bare rims!

I live in California and do like chrome rims. I really prefer the better-finished ones made by Araya and Ukai, as they are much smoother in terms of the rim's variation of thickness at the brake tracks, so aren't a hindrance to riding in hilly terrain, in dry weather.
Some of the Japanese chrome rims have subtle braking dots on the sidewalls, which makes them a lot better for the life of my brake pads than the French Chrolux rims, and has a nicer hum to their braking sound.

Rims having canted sidewalls may show an effective variation of thickness at the brake pads simply because of poor control of their roundness during buildup into wheels, but which has nothing to do with their welded joint's treatment.

The bearings in Atom/Normandy hubs are not the most durable, but can be improved with Gr25 balls and will last much longer if their bearing tension adjustment only becomes slop-free upon tightening the axle's quick-release lever. Nutted axles do not compress upon installation to the frame, so can be adjusted snug at the work bench.