Originally Posted by
LarrySellerz
Has a productive conversation with an engineer who happens to be a bicycle nerd. He explained to me how with this failure the bicycle frame is now a parallelogram, and the integrity of the other welds are now called into question. The next one to fail is likely where the downtube meets the forks (I think that’s what he said) and it will happen when I grab a handful of the front brake in an emergency, and my face will slam into the ground.
that being said, I got on the bike today. There was an initial creek, which was honestly concerning, and now it’s riding silently. I really hope this joint fails again before another fails, I think that’s the biggest worry now. Kind of glad I did a hack job on this repair, might be safer this way. It’s like a fuse or pressure relief valve now.
I found this bicycle abandoned and like the look of the frame. It’s pretty heavy though. This is what I have in mind to put the components of the race bike on. Need to bite the bullet and buy the tools and start trying to put it together.
what kind of stuff should I be looking up in terms of choosing a compatible frame for the components on the epoxied bike? Should I just buy the tools to take everything off, try to put it all back on the Japanese bike, and see if something doesn’t fit and go from there?
late 70's early 80's nishki...hard to tell model. good quality frame, likely double butted cro mo tubing. frame likely made by miyata
by any chance does the blue/white bike shop label say "the off ramp"
it would be english bottom bracket
you would need a claw derailler or claw derailler adapter
https://www.performancebike.com/sunr...BoCzsMQAvD_BwE
the rear is 126 mm so you need to check your wheels or current bike to see if they are 126 or 130. you can stuff a 130 into 126 steel frame, but results can vary, cold setting frame to 130 better
all do able, but take some detail knowledge and planning, not just jump in and see what happens