Originally Posted by
jccaclimber
I’ve hesitated to chime into this mess of a thread for many reasons. That said:
2. If you want Ti to more faithfully follow an existing hole with an unsteady hand, have someone fab you a simple nose bushing and take a big enough cut to be worth the trouble.
This is an interesting idea. Are you thinking a piece of pipe/tube extended off the seat tube to hold the reamer parallel to the seat tube?
Originally Posted by
jccaclimber
4. If the builder is willing to share the adhesive you may discover that it gets very weak well within the temperature range of a heat gun, and within what the frame would survive. Pulling it out may be possible in that situation if you can get a slot shaped plate behind it.
Edit on #4, you may need to slot the sleeve first the way one does a stuck and corroded seatpost. This is to allow some expansion room due to CTE differences between the aluminum and Ti.
The builder didn't say explicitly what they used but said that it was "standard industry practice" to use JB-Qwik-Weld. There is a piece of the existing shim missing where the reamer grabbed it. I am going to see if I can scrape some adhesive from the edges and see if it looks like JB.
I am also considering making a relief slot in the existing bushing using hand mechanical means or possibly hand assisted by chemical etch with sodium hydroxide (lye). From what I can find titanium should be impervious to chemical attack by sodium hydroxide whereas it will readily attack aluminum.