NO "trick" to the front (or rear). Easy as pie. The front cones require a 13mm cone wrench. The outside nut requires a standard 16mm box wrench. That's all, ever, period. Do NOT ever remove the dust caps. EVER! Once disassembled and fully cleaned, VERY lightly grease the races, make sure the bearings are fully greased in hand and the cone has a slight coating of grease for that part of assembly. For final reassembling, assuming the axle is perfectly centered (!!!), on final setting calibration, always set fractionally "loose", hardly detectable in hand......., you will feel it is not perfectly set. This applies to both front and rear........ When correct, the quick release - with proper closing pressure shores up the gap (wobble) for perfect pressure between the cone to bearings to race. Many times you have to go back and forth to get this set right. Yes, it can be a pain. But, it's the difference between your standard, everyday junk "wrench" job and true precision. Ask me why I have SR hubs/wheels from the 70's and 80's that have over 130K+ miles on them and are perfect. Once precisely set you can simply periodically regrease without disassembly through the side cap dust hole. Just a light application works well enough several times per year. Purge will come out between the con and cap. Many greases work perfectly, but I've always employed Phil Wood. It's the easiest to inject through the aforementioned cap hole.

On the rear you employ two 14mm cone wrenches per side.