What I view as priorities, with first mentioned being most important.

- Figure out if you want a bike that is faster steering or a bike that is stable and slower to change line. Neither is right and neither is wrong. They are just different. Once you know, then look at bikes with trail numbers that match with what you want.
*If you want faster steering, so a wide tire road bike, get a gravel bike with 58-65mm of trail and chainstays that are 430mm or shorter.
*If you want slower steering, so more like a drop bar mtb, get a gravel bike with 72-90mm of trail and chainstays that are 440mm or shorter.

- Pick a frame that can clear at least 45mm tires and preferably 50mm. Even if you don't need tires Thst wide, having the space helps when there is mud/sticks/rocks being picked up.

- Buy the highest groupset level you can afford. It's dumb to upgrade after you buy a bike.




What isn't actually important or is not too important when it comes to a stock new bike purchase...

- Frame material is important, but more important is the details of each and those details are confusing or unclear most of the time. Carbon frames come in multiple quality levels. Same with titanium, aluminum, and steel. So more important than the frame material is the details of what level is used on the specific frames you are considering. Since this is such an unknown, just trust that any established brand will use quality materials and will over build in order to reduce issues.
Some bikes have flex points in the headset area or seat post area and if you geek for that, then cool. I think a carbon seatpost and 43mm tires is plenty if flex and comfort for how I ride, but others ride differently and want different things.

- The tires that come with the bike aren't something to really focus on. Don't pick the bike based on tires since what is on the bike is likely not what you want in terms of tread pattern, width, or rolling resistance. So go into the purchase knowing you may need to buy different tires.

- Wheels that come on the bike also likely aren't anything you will need to focus on. Unless it's a $5000 or higher bike, the wheels that come stock will likely work fine and be quite neutral and not anything to talk about. That isn't a good thing or a bad thing. Wheels are a common cost cutting spot on a bike and stock wheels are overall quite serviceable. There is little difference worth handwriting over on any stock wheelset that comes on bikes at the same price point.
If you want to cut weight off the bike, new wheels can help. Weight the old ones and spend $400-1000 depending on brand and material to get something lighter. It's common to spend $400-650 and save 400g on a wheel swap for bikes that are in the $2000 range.