What my eyes are telling me: This looks like a BB similar to what 3alarmer posted.On the drive side there is a flange which sits tight against the BB shell. I see no issues there. If the BB is the correct width for the BB shell, the non-drive side should end in proximity to the outside of the BB shell if if is cartridge style not requiring a lock ring and should extend about 3mm further for the lockring if it is not a cartridge BB.

This appears to be a cartridge BB. (And I cannot imagine any shop not using one if it had any choice at all and the Shimano ones are ubiquitous, cheap and very good.) Looks like the BB comes exactly to the non-drive side of the BB shell. Perfect! Go ride it. (That is, of course, if the shop did the other half of the work right. (The important half.)

So - put the chain in the middle cog in back. Put the bike or yourself in a place so that you can sight from the rear forward along the chain. Is it dead-on straight. (Or drifting over 1/2 the distance between cogs if you have an even number of cassette cogs?) If the answer is yes, the shop did an A1 good job. Thank them. If close, well, locating chainrings can be tedious. Spacers or swapping out that BB for another may be required. Manufacturing tolerances and the nature of tapered BB spindles mean there is variance that the shop mechanic cannot control.

I consider the chainline more important than the actual location of the BB as long as everything works. (Phil Wood makes a BB that you can adjust to a fairly large degree of "askew" to either side. Given their standards of quality, this suggests they are quite certain it really doesn't matter.)