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Old 01-28-24 | 11:47 PM
  #9  
VegasJen
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
TA still offers their Pro 5 Vis crank arms in 160mm, but finding an importer might be an issue.
https://specialites-ta.com/pro-5-vis...nivelles,170mm

Otherwise, BMX crank arms come in lengths down to 110mm; you can expect to do a bit of fiddling if you intend to run a double or triple ring setup.

Finally, Mark Stonich at BikeSmithDesign has a crank-shortening service:
https://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/index.html
I have heard of some places that do shortening. I'm pretty sure the crank arms on my K2 can have a good bit taken out of them. There is a scallop in the arm, but I think they just use the same arm for multiple lengths because the scallop stops somewhere around 5 or 6 inches, then the rest if full thickness. These arms are 175mm and I'm thinking of taking them down to either 160 or 165, depending on what length still gives me sufficient structure.

On the Ridley, the FSA crank arms are carbon. Can carbon be shortened? And thanks for the length. Reading it now.
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
I'm not sure of your body ergonomics or reasons for shorter ranks.
I use 165mm because my old, beat up, knees simply don't bend like they used to.

While experimenting with shorter cranks, I tried 160mm and they were simply just too short.
They made me feel like I was on a kids tricycle with only 2-3 RPM added to my cadence.

You might be able to find 160's from a kids/BMX/junior size bike to try before you spend "real" money for a size you end up not liking.
I was 6' 50 years ago, but have shrunk.
Ya, well I started out at 5'4" 30 years ago and I'm not getting any taller. I have kind of short legs anyway.
Originally Posted by Duragrouch
For reasons having nothing to do with length, recommendations:
- Not current Shimano; There is a recall out, the spider is "bonded" somehow to one ring or the spider, and they have been coming apart ("delaminating"). Also, that design may be less conducive to finding a shorter crank, due to higher tooling cost.
- I strongly endorse the "hollowtech II" style cranks (originally a shimano design); Large diameter hollow axle (light, rigid), permanently attached (with pressed splines and perhaps some epoxy as well) to the right spider, with "external" bottom bracket bearings (of different standards requiring different wrenches, I went with "ISO External", quite common, and bought a 4-way wrench to handle most of the other types as well). This bearing style is more durable than an internal cartridge of any type (square taper, octalink, etc), because the bearing balls are larger or more of them, and bearing preload can be adjusted as they wear, which is critical for durability; Once you have slack, wear accelerates. You can also remove the crank easily in the field without a crank pulling tool, just loosen the two clamp bolts on the left crank arm (around the splined shaft), and the whole right spider and axle slides right out.
- My personal favorite now is 5x110BCD chainring pattern (50/34 double), but big road doubles (53/39) are usually on 130BCD. But check the cost of replacement chainrings in various patterns; I have stayed away from 4 bolt and especially 4 bolt asymmetrical. That said, my crank with rings and bearings ($75) was equal or less cost than just two rings.
- For road bike, or other bike with sufficient clearance at chainstays, look for low Q-factor, i.e., pedals closer together, crank arms less flared outward.

I don't know if you are seeking a doube or triple and chainring sizes, chainwidth (how many cogs on cassette), you should specify all.

Try to know your desired "chainline" dimension before ordering, this is from bike centerline to center of crank chainring(s), should be same as to center of cassette cogs.

Quick look on amazon, here is one available in 160, but is the problematic design I spoke of, notice no chainring bolts:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-FC-R7...8-4&th=1&psc=1

My current favorite crankset with all desired features mentioned above, but I only see in 170; This used to be available on amazon but no longer, but still available on ebay, with bearings included, $59 for steel rings and $68 for aluminum:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/31423839097...Bk9SR_zz3bmqYw
Thanks. There's still a bunch I don't understand about a lot of this terminology., like "chainline". I read that the other day but had no idea what it meant. Also, O.L.D.? Read about that but only the acronym. Haven't seen an explanation of what it stands for.

I heard something about a Shimano recall but I kind of assumed that anything currently for sale would be post redesign. I can't imagine any company allowing a product with a known recall to continue to be sold, but then again, maybe some retailers want their money and will let Shimano deal with that headache.
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