View Single Post
Old 02-24-24 | 12:30 PM
  #34  
bikingshearer's Avatar
bikingshearer
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
Titanium Club Membership
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,740
Likes: 4,389
From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley

Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.

Originally Posted by steelbikeguy
I'm not sure that a flex wrench is required, but it might be handy.
I've been using a 12 point combination wrench, and can't recall any large amount of effort or frustration.




Steve in Peoria
In my experience, it depends on the saddle. With a Brooks Pro, B17 ort Swallow, or with any saddle with a a lot of space along the sides i which to stick a wrench. going from the side with a regular wrench or the Campy wiggly one is . . . tolerable. It is still much easier to use the ratcheting wrench shown. Even a ratcheting wrench without the swivel head is much better than a regular wrench or the Campy wrench.

Most saddles, however, including almost all plastic-based saddles, have very little side clearance, making getting any wrench, ratcheting or not, in from the side unpleasantly difficult. Yeah, you can bend up one of the skirts, but it is a PITA. That means going in from the rear. Using a ratcheting wrench for that means a lot of very small ratcheting back-and-forth movements. Using a regular wrench means making one very small wrenching movement, taking the wrench off, resetting the wrench, making another very small wrenching movement, and repeating about 100 times. It gets old very, very quickly. Doable, but extremely tiresome. This tiresomeness factor also applies to going in through the side, BTW.

I say: just get the ratcheting wrench.
__________________
"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney

Last edited by bikingshearer; 02-24-24 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Bewcause I can't type or proofread for poop,
bikingshearer is offline  
Reply