Originally Posted by
FBinNY
I'm not familiar with how you were taught
I wasn't really taught. Only going by what I've gleaned off the internet, and by helpful people like yourself.... of course some trial and error too!
Originally Posted by
FBinNY
Is it SOP to measure tension so early?
No, no it isn't. The first two wheel sets I built I went for true first, then had to spend quite a bit of time tweaking tension to get it ballanced well and under 10% deviation. Since I now have a tensionometer that is fast and accurate (I can measure and enter data in under 4 minutes), this is an experiment to see what if I focussed on spoke tension earlier in the build. I intially laced and brought up some tension (~30kgf) only by counting equal number of turns - plus an extra half turn on the DS to set dish closeish. This is when I first measured tension and it was fairly erratic at approx. 30% deviation IIRC. Focusing on getting tension closer to equal at this point improved and smoothed out the radial true and didn't make the lateral true any worse. I was mostly 'getting my house in order' before adding more tension. When I added more tension (~60kgf) things seemed to calm down a bit more, radial true improved slightly again, lateral true seemed unchanged. It's out but nothing funky and should be easy to get in line. At this point I added more tension to get to ~90kgf. I haven't measured anything yet but I'm super curious to see where things lay.
Originally Posted by
FBinNY
Do not try to correct tension until after elbows are set, and the wheel is reasonably true at 80% or so of target tension.
FWIW they're straight pull spokes. Yes, now I think I will focus on getting true near final and tensions evened out better before adding the final bit of tension. Thanks!