Originally Posted by TC1

I have owned a dropout alignment tool, but it didn't do the job that was required, so I gave it to a friend who is less meticulous. I now use other tools, and metrology instruments.

Ironically, way back up top, before you started getting all defensive and arguing nonsensical points for no reason, you agreed with me:





When I inquired as to how you assure that your dropouts are squared to the frame, you said:



When pressed for a description of how that comparison to the frame tubes takes place, you had no reply -- seemingly because your method is that which most people use, taking a step back, closing one eye, and havin' a look at it.

Which is fine, but let's not pretend that such offers real precision. And your first sentence in that quote isn't correct, either, at least with respect to the precision that we are discussing. Of which you would be aware, had you the experience you are now claiming to have.



When did I say that I do not check them? I am simply realistic about what can be accomplished by the crude hand tools and eyeball measurements being discussed here. I'm also aware, as I mentioned a page or so ago, that most dropouts are not even manufactured to sufficient tolerances to make the operations that you are claiming, possible to the precision you claim.

Just for the record and all, I manufactured a couple (non-bicycle) parts for a friend two days ago, and my CNC rig held +/- .0012" on the critical dimensions ( roughly 1/5th of a hair ). In case you wanted to blather on some more about my experience, ya know.



What tools are you using to spread frames that cause you to routinely fubar them so completely? A proper tool that will not mangle your frame costs less than $5 to make, with parts available at any hardware store. Are you using that half-assed 2x4 method? If so, no wonder you have such problems.