What is interesting is that in that thread, while there was some chatter about using lye, I elected not to and decided to try a couple other methods, more for the experience than anything else.

I used the hacksaw blade method for the seatpost, and a gigantic 30lb cheater bar for the stem. Both were stuck. I had a good 5ft+ of leverage on the stem, and it just *barely* came loose, and took and lot of back and forth. The post came out, but I don't think I'd use the hacksaw method again. I just don't have the touch lol. At least I didn't go through the frame! That experience made me appreciate lye even more, which I know is a very slim minority opinion on these forums, but oh well.

My final thoughts are:

low end-to-decent frame + nice seatpost: try the heat/clamp/pull/twist methods - but be careful w/ the twisting
low end-to-decent frame + crap seatpost: all the above, but add in the lye

high end frame + nice/rare seatpost: good luck!
high end frame + 'who cares' seatpost: lye only. If the frame is super thin tubing, or very delicate I'm using lye. It is completely harmless to steel, and there is no way I'm adding induced stresses to the frame by twisting and pulling. If you want to save the paint, try to plug the seat tube water bottle holes (if it has them), invert the frame, and let the lye spew out the bottom into a bucket when it starts to go. Still wrap the frame in armageddon-proof grease + cling wrap, etc. The only reason it ruined the paint on my Ironman when I removed a post on that one is because I didn't cover it. And it didn't bubble or strip the paint, it just discolored it.