Simple Green does not do a good job of dissolving oil on chains, I had tried soaking chains in a solution overnight, poor.

I now clean the chain with mineral oil as solvent, only because near-full bottles of tiki torch fuel are dirt cheap at goodwill at the end of summer, and it's like 98% mineral oil. Second, I use this in a Park Tool on-bike chain cleaner (cheap copies now on amazon), that saves a lot of effort of pulling the chain off and putting back on. I put in some solvent, put it on the chain, crank the chain through a couple full revolutions, then leave the cleaner on and walk away for a while, let the solvent do its magic, then crank more and pull off the cleaner. I wipe the chain dry, and could immediately lube, but I usually do this on a rainy day so often let it sit overnight for most of the remaining mineral oil in the chain to evaporate, then lube chain.

I used to lube chain with melted wax (for over a decade), liked the clean of it, went to oil because I thought it lubed better. Test results online now prove opposite, wax works great, even plain ol candle wax, however mixtures with teflon powder and molybdenum- or tungsten-disulfide are even better; Expensive, but you can also mix your own with purchased ingredients. However, wax does not protect against rust, that was also a reason for me switching to oil, but I now avoid rain like the plague because the road grit trashes the drivetrain and rim brakes, plus gets inside my cheap hubs and pedal bearings, so basically a complete overhaul after a good soaking on the road. So I expect this year to go back to wax after buying a couple new chains and a new cassette. Melted wax requires pulling the chain off, but that's a lot easier when it is clean. And, the derailleur pulleys, cogs, and chainrings don't get full of oil-crud.