View Single Post
Old 05-12-24 | 05:35 PM
  #14  
cyclezen's Avatar
cyclezen
OM boy
20 Anniversary
Community Builder
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,317
Likes: 1,307
From: Goleta CA

Bikes: a bunch

Originally Posted by nonhunner
P.s. I measured right up to the inside of my cycling short! So should be a good measurement.
Ok, so with the measurements you added, height and weight, I can visualize a shorter leg/longer torso rider. Arm length also has a part of the overall fit process.
But from current measurements, using most manfacturers chart might put you on a larger size frame than might provide a balanced riding 'position', and yes, you might find the need to move the saddle forward.
That depends on how upright vs forward lean you prefer for your torso lean angle. Riders carrying substantial torso weight, relative to core and back strength, might prefer a more upright posture, Riders with lower torso mass relative to overall body, might do well with and prefer more forward lean...
In any case, to balance the mass/load of the torso, the amount of pedal pressure (power) you apply contributes to helping balance torso mass... This helps counteract some of the torso mass...
And all this takes the mass/weight load off the hands contact... so a lighter touch and less pressure and weight applied means more comfort and control...
so the relationship of the saddle, your sitzbones contact point to the pedals, where you apply power, is a key, maybe The Key to finding the optimum balance between comfort and power.- For varied road riding.. There are times/riding type when max power supersedes comfort for consideration.

Smaller frame sizes usually have more upright seat tube angles, compensating for the shorter legs/femurs of shorter legs. Opposite for longer legs... and saddle placement may get 'funny' when that relationship becomes broken.
What this all points to, IMO, is that a 54 cm frame may be an optimum road frame size (considering other important frame geometry). 55 and maybe a 56 in older school frames (depending...) should also work.
These comments are for performance road bikes/riding. Loaded touring, townie, beach cruiser, etc.. riding other than mostly road have other/additional considerations.
Adjusting the cockpit is done AFTER you find or get close to your saddle position = Stem, bars, levers, and the info needed to set them optimally.
Since this is the 'Bike Fit forum', we can't and shouldn't assume that it's only 'road' riding, performance, and similar. But if not noted by the OP, then we often 'assume', and maybe not correctly.
There is large variation in how, why, overall intent of a person's ride...
Ride On
Yuri
cyclezen is online now  
Reply