Originally Posted by
pepperbelly
I will get out tomorrow. I had too many things to do today.
I put my Cobb Randee saddle back on. I think I know why it was putting pressure on my peritoneum. With the rails level the rear of the saddle is higher than the front. I had it level across the top. I will see if having the rails level helps. I also think I had it too far back. I don't think I was actually sitting on the wings.
I also rotated my handlebars more to try to get the hoods more or less level with the bar tops.
I put the Cobb back on since it’s a little wider than the Specialized Body Geometry Toupe.
I will check seat height tomorrow too. I use flat pedals. They have spikes on them so my feet don't slip. I have too many stops and starts to feel comfortable in cleats right now.
To measure height fit I do put my heel on the pedal-right?
When I ride I have the balls of my feet over the pedal spindle as best as I can.
Originally Posted by
pepperbelly
That Selle SMP profile resembles my Cobb Randee.
I think my Toupe just isn’t wide enough for my sit bones. That is why I bought the Cobb. I have no good reason why I put the Toupe back on other than to look like one of the cool kids.
saddle & position
saddle is often used for weight distribution - could work, but also 'not'...
pressure points from weight are: each hand, each pedal/foot, each siztbone (you have 2 on the saddle). That's always where the 'hurt' starts, and then transfers to other associated parts....
'weight' pressure change isn;t going to be changed quickly/dramtically - it can only be distributed in a way which reduces /distributes the pressure...
associated with that is muscle performance... move an element and you change both... aside from 'handling' skills, everything riding the bike centers on these - you rpower, you rweight and how you distribute/use them.
'Level saddle' - a good start point. depends on saddle... DON'T assume saddle rails are 'level' to saddle top surface - many are not
'Level' Cobb Saddle - rails not level... never assume
There are many shapes, sizes, dimensions of saddles from companies - some very different ... yours may be different from another model ...
don't be fooled by 'shape'... some saddles are flat, some have a high back - measure level from 'nose' to where your sitzbones rest...
fore/aft can help with putting more weight on butt and little less on hands - but often not THE Solution...
seat height - variable... for each rider and riding needs. Also a lot of variability...
Most/Best position for balance of power vs comfort is based on 'Posture/Position'
Good cycling Form / Position
Here's a rider enjoying his ride, having found his optimum position - comfortable forward lean FROM bending his elbows and rolling his elbows inward towards torso. The elbows and associated arm muscles are your shock absorbers for the shoulders, head, torso. Straight arms transfer road shocks to shoulders neck, and back down thru spine. Very upright torso transfers shock from saddle/butt up thru the spine to neck... Bend each (eblows/arms & Hips/waist) and the shock is 'absorbed'...
This guy is older/'seasoned' and carries a sizeable torso; but he's found his best' posture for riding his bike.
saddle height/extension : I've found that formulas can get you started... and also a simple method. Rolling easy on bike, center your heels on the pedal spindles & make comfortable pedal revolutions...
with your heels on pedal spindles, pedal backwards.
If you can do BOTH with smooth pedaling and NO rocking of the hips - you're close to your best setting height - small variations (mm's either up or down) after that to fine tune...
ANY SETTING - SMALL adjustments, in steps, and some riding between changing settings... (often multiple rides before next change)|
ONE CHANGE AT A TIME ! focus on one 'change', at a time...
acknowledge your 'weaknesses' and allow them to build ... a little bit of stress to the body, helps build those weaknesses - don;t baby, don;t bury yourself - cycling, like so many things, is a lesson about yourself.
Ride On
Yuri