Originally Posted by
Clyde1820
By the end of my 20s, I pretty much hung up the fins for good. No more bodysurfing for me.
The size and power of the waves where I bodysurfed ("The Wedge" in Newport, CA) just wasn't conducive to retaining use of my neck, shoulders, etc. Got "maytagged" a couple of times, hard, and that's when I was in strong, stellar shape for such pummelling. Glad I gave it up then. Can't imagine taking such a pounding these days.
Back then, on a few occasions I had the knees strained from all the slamming. Once or twice, the back muscles were achy for a few days from having to eject from a big wave. Never did get injured, really. But came close on countless occasions, walking away with just minor aches and pains.
As you say, a body can get really torqued out of alignment if the "right" wave does the wrong thing.
wow, you're in another class
I've gotta look some of that up!
but yes, catch the wrong coastal wave, the wrong way & you'll be tumbling under water for several seconds. gotta get low & let it rumble over you. & if it flings you forward be prepared for where you're headed. be patient your next breath is coming but you gotta wait for the pause, then swim if necessary. or climb out if you're lucky
if you have an arm injury & can't swim, when you need to, you could die
if you can't ride out the above &
panic, you could die
if you are unlucky enough to get flipped, in a crashing wave, next to shore, you could die
I've got stories but won't bore you ;-)
ideally there's a bump-out in the beach that is shallow. then the incoming waves, hopefully small & gentle, when they reach the shore, that shallow part will bring up little waves, whose break will carry you over a long distance in only 1-2 feet of water. & hopefully little to no seaweed
I was having trouble standing up at the end of my ride. the sand was soft under foot & the wave frequency was on the higher side
then there's the sharks, but that's a whole other aspect to it, now
