Yeah, that spot (The Wedge) is pretty great. Or, was. It's been years since I've done bodysurfing there. Fifty years ago, the character of the people who congregated there gave it the reputation it's got now. Very dangerous, on the "wrong" day. Very powerful hydro forces. A very steep bottom shelf that rapidly increases the wave height. And where the jetty and shoreline meet up, there's simply nowhere for "excess" water to go ... except back out toward the incoming next wave. Now and then, that backwash results in the next wave going sideways, turning a well-formed tube into an exploding mess. When it's smooth, it's incomparable. When it gets a bit rougher, or if the angle of inbound wave energy is off-line even a little bit (from the line of the jetty), the waves change a great deal.

A couple of (internet) photos showing the size and shape of the waves that can form there.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/XnMZ-T86GP4/maxresdefault.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/97/ce...7f4bb51578.jpg

And here's a puny little wave, with the guy about to get "maytagged" ...

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/e4/e9/18/e...d-the-body.jpg

Gotta love The Wedge. A chiropractor's dream, you might say.