Ok, so I reread the first post and got all sorts of confused.
1. Is the problem the stem is too long horizontally? If so, get something shorter like 80? Or 70?
2. Is the problem the quill height on the stem making it too high (so that it is above the safe insertion point?) If so, there are shorter quilled stems ( ITM Eclypse comes to mind)
3. Is there an issue with the fork threads or diameter and your stem?
4. Is the steerer too long so that the headset needs spacers and it makes it look wonky?
Problem with getting a new fork is also the rake and trail of the new fork, and whether it changes the dynamic of the front end.
Originally Posted by
louison
I have a Peugeot Competition 5000 from '98 or thereabouts and the threaded fork (stem and handlebar in reality) is giving me a headache, but it's got me thinking about bikes from that era. The Peugeot is fairly low-end but a good chunk of higher-endish bikes seem to have made use of 1" threadless forks... so could I save myself from a migraine by getting a 1" threadless headset and fork ? I've even seen people keep the threaded fork and add a 1"->1"1/8 shim but I'm not sure how safe that is ? I may have confused myself with the inch talk as I'm european but I hope I conveyed properly what my goal is
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750