View Single Post
Old 10-14-24 | 07:07 AM
  #24  
mstateglfr's Avatar
mstateglfr
Sunshine
 
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,713
Likes: 10,256
From: Des Moines, IA

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Yet another low info thread on bike forums, despite multiple people trying to provide good quality info.
Hey Juggy_Gales- which frame has the geometry that you want for how you ride and how you like a bike to feel?

I would think that would be at or near the top of important considerations.


I've had my Giant Toughroad SLR2 since late 2017. She still rides nice and I'm not going to sell her but I've had a desire to get a more serious bike. I'd like to continue my trend with a bike set up for Gravel/Road.
- Do you want the same front end steering feel? Do you want the same overall steering and ride feel? Do you want something different?...These are more critical than what material a frame with 40+mm tires is made out of.


While most every bike can last long if you take care of it, certain materials can have a higher probability of lasting a lifetime & even be passed down.
- Titanium frames break all the time. Same with carbon frames, steel frames, and aluminum frames. Yes, titanium frames wont rust like steel will. Yes, titanium frames likely wont crack like a carbon frame if it falls on a curb or something similar. But its goofy to buy a frame based on the possibility of passing it down to someone decades from now. Thats just an idealistic emotion that is driving the decision.
Further, modern steel bikes dont rust anywhere close to the frequency or level that bikes from 30-50 years ago rusted. Shocker- quality paint application and frame coating prep actually works.
People pass steel bikes down all the time. People pass aluminum and carbon frame bikes too. My youngest kid is 13 and is riding a road bike with an aluminum frame and steel fork that was made 25 years ago in 1999. I bought the frame used(passed down), it was ridden by my older daughter for 3 years(passed down) and it shows 0 sign of concern.


The fact that Titanium doesn't rust or corrode while being as strong as steel but lighter & will take much more punishment than carbon has me leaning in that direction.
- Buy a titanium bike if you really want one, but saving weight vs aluminum or steel is a pretty weak reason to cite. And rust is another weak reason(see above).
If a size M Lynskey GR300 weighs 1800g(reported to weigh 2300 with fork), and a steel frame Fairlight Secan 54T weighs 2100g(based on actual weights of all Secan sizes), you are saving 10oz in total bike weight. If you think that is critical or even noticeable, then by all means use that as a reason to buy a GR300. But before you stick with that reason, make sure you ride for an hour with 10oz attached to the frame then ride the same route without that 10oz and see if you genuinely notice.


What are your thoughts on Titanium bikes? Do you have experience with Titanium & or modern steel bikes? And do you feel the price is worth it?
- I think titanium bikes, especially in the All-Road and Gravel categories, are enjoying a good bit of popularity because so many riders want something unique while also being scared of frame damage. The emotional response is to then go titanium.
- I have experience with titanium road bikes- one from the 90s and one from the 10s. To be clear, people chiming in that have only ever ridden a titanium road frame from the 90s should have about 0 influence on your view since there is so much that is fundamentally different between a 90s titanium road frame and a 20s titanium disc gravel frame.
- I have experience with modern steel- Columbus Zona, shaped Reynolds 853, and unbranded heat treated double butted 4130 cromo.
- If the geometry for a Lynskey GR300 is what you want, then I think the base model is worth the money. Thats the one with external cables and is always on sale because its Lynskey and they have a sale if a day ends in 'Y'. I think the upcharges for internal cable routing and better looking logos are really expensive and not worth the money.



If I really wanted a titanium gravel bike and wasnt going to go with a custom frame builder, I would likely buy an Otso Warakin Ti. Below is a 1x11 full build. But I would probably buy the frameset and build it up myself. I like the geometry of the frame. The Litespeed Ultimate GR2 geometry is also pretty good...but still far from what I want a gravel bike to feel like. The Lynseky GR300 geometry is flat out stupid for how I ride a gravel bike so that is a total non-starter.
https://otsocycles.com/collections/w...-11-speed-sale

Last edited by mstateglfr; 10-14-24 at 08:16 AM.
mstateglfr is offline  
Reply