As a pro framebuilder, I disagree. Let me explain. Not only should this job be done with the right tools but even with the right tools it isn't that easy to do well. There are 5 adjustments to align a fork. 1st, the rake has to be checked so they are exactly the same on both blades. And correct to the head angle of the frame. It is not uncommon for a bike sometime in its life to do a header into something solid and as a result the forks blades get bent back a bit. The guy dong the alignment should know how much rake the non-yet-aligned-fork presently has and how much it needs to be bent more to agree with the original build. 2nd the front dropouts have to be equidistant on each side of the steerer's centerline. Most commonly these checks are determined accurately with an expensive fixture only framebuilders are likely to have. These two data points can be checked in other ways with a surface plate and V blocks if the shop has them for some reason. The 3rd check is that both dropouts are parallel to each other. This is done with what framebuilders refer to as "H" tools. These are cups on a long handle that have to match up when inserted into each dropout. Park makes a set that work okay on cheaper bikes but not accurate enough (for me at least) for a good steel frame like a Mercian. The 4th check is make sure both blades/dropouts are exactly the same length so the wheel centers in the fork. This is out more often than what might be expected. I use an accurately trued and dished wheel for this. If they are not the same, then the offending dropout slot needs to be filed shorter. It is easy to mess that up not only in slot length but also width. I would never turn my good frame/fork over to a guy not experienced with a file and also he must have the right file to do that job.

In the old days upper end shops may bave bought these tools but when steel frames were replaced with other materials, a shop would no longer spend serious money for occasional use tools. They will refer their customer to one of us.