let's start with some basic information...
what is the exact model number on the Front Derailleur? this is stamped into the inner chain cage plate of the derailleur, on the left side of that plate.
what are the tooth counts of the rings on the crankset?
are you leaving a bit of slack cable at the derailleur when you install it, or pulling it extra-tight?
is there a tab where the cable mounts onto the derailleur arm? if so, are you routing the cable to the inside(closer to the pinch screw), or outside of that tab?
does the derailleur ACTUALLY GET STUCK when you hand-move it to the big ring position, or it just won't move far enough, as if something is blocking it?
you say the shifter works when the cable is not attached to the Derailleur, so let's look at the DERAILLEUR and CABLE MOUNTING POINT as the possible problem.
i know, a lot of questions, but all we have to figure this out is clues from what you tell us..
it may be a 2 gear DERAILLEUR...
or the cable may not be routed correctly at the pinch screw...
and i've had to LOOSEN a cable's adjustment many times to achieve good quiet shifting, and to ALLOW ROOM for the Shifter to engage the 3rd, Big ring position.....
I've also had derailleur cages run into the middle ring, not allowing completion of the shifting to the big ring.... the Shifter acts like it can't move far enough, but the problem is at the DERAILLEUR.
if the cable isn't routed OUTSIDE of the tab on most Shimano Ft. Ders, the cable PULL RATIO is altered in a bad way.....not enough derailleur movement to complete the last shift... the shifter will act like it won't move the derailleur enough.... this easy-to-do cable mis-routing mistake can also cause VERY difficult shifting from the low ring, the shift takes extra force at the start.
routing the cable to the right of the pinch screw makes this effect even worse... i've seen it many times.