Originally Posted by
zandoval
All this does is move the freewheel over a few millimeters and possibly allowing the derailleur to properly engage that last cog. It is just a possible solution to his problem. I had the same problem with an old PR10 that I was mounting a threaded derailleur on. Even when I was using a derailleur with the full range to engage the last cog I ran the risk of the derailleur catching the spokes. It was just too close. Rather then changing out the derailleur, hub, dish, freewheel, or bending the frame, I just threw in a spacer. And it worked! Latter I moved the spacer to the inside of my freewheel as I described in my first post. I am not a bike mechanic and just found the spacer provided a simple solution. In all my frustration I did not try new bar tape. But if I had thought of it I would have...
Vintage Campy-Rally Deraileur Mounting
What the OP reported was that there was no adjustment he could make to his derailleur that would allow it to shift onto the large cog
without overshifting into the spokes. And that's not a problem of the cog being too far away, but that the amount of overshift necessary to get the chain to lift onto the large cog meant that the chain wouldn't settle on that cog and would overshoot. And that is happening because the pulley is so far below the cog that the chain ends up flexing quite a bit rather than jumping up. Move the freewheel right with a spacer and the overshifting won't change.
OTOH, if you have an old 5 speed derailleur and a 7 speed freewheel, you may max out the derailleur's ability to go left, and it will simply stop before the last cog. At that point you could try to move the low cog right by adding a freewheel spacer, but on many hubs you have very limited space to go further right before the chain or high cog hits seat stay. And since the OP is using a 14t high cog, the risk of that happening is much greater.